Preservatería

April 10, 2008

It may look like a British phone box but it is, in fact, una preservatería, or una tienda de preservativos. No, no, nothing to do with ‘e’ numbers and chemical dyes – that would be conservativos, sorry, I mean conservantes (what a minefield!). What we are talking about here is a ‘condom shop’, a sort of sexy sweetie shop full of multi-coloured, multi-flavoured, multi-textured preservativos or condones. Spotted in Málaga.

Bits of Business

April 8, 2008

The other day I went down the mountain to do some gestiones. Down the mountain. Bit of an exaggeration; Macharaviaya, the village where I live is only 240 metres above sea level, but it’s ten minutes of spiralling downhill bends to get to the coast, so ‘down the mountain’ it is.

Bueno, back to the gestiones. On this occasion, these involved queueing for 15 minutes to send a registered letter at Correos, nipping into the Town Hall to sign an application for a home improvement subsidy, popping into my bank to ask for yet another debit card replacement on account of the magnetic band’s every-decreasing half life, dropping in at the insurance company where I have a plan de jubilación (pension scheme) to see how many millions (ha,ha) I’m due in the unlikely event that both of us are still around in 20 years’ time – and, a trip all the way into Málaga to hand in my three-monthly tax returns to the person who does gestiones for a living: the gestor, the sorter outer of all the bits of running around I haven’t got the time, energy or grey matter to do myself.

A gestión, in case you didn’t know / hadn’t guessed is a sorting out, an administrative or bureaucratic errand, a bit of business. To quote from our book In the Garlic, Hacer gestiones can range from solving a minor problem with a bank to major negotiations like pulling troops out of Iraq.”

The gestor, on the other hand, is mostly concerned with running around or sending his/her minions to run around on your behalf to obtain official documents, permits, licenses and authorisations. He/She costs good money, but may save you from stress-induced heart attacks in the long run.

Though not necessarily – should your gestor’s office be located in the busiest part of town, where the nearest extortion racket, sorry, municipal car park, is always full, and the adjacent side streets are a mess of one-way, wing mirror-clipping madness.

Luckily, on this particular day, someone actually pulled out of a prime parking space less than 200 metres from the Gestoría. The sun was shining, the pavements were buzzing, and when I handed over my paperwork, it seemed that absolutely all my papeles were in present and correct – that for once, La Ley de ‘falta uno’, The Law of ‘One Missing’ did not apply.

A reward was in order. A nice sunny table on a sidewalk cafe, a copy of that day’s El País newspaper, and a leisurely breakfast – consisting of a sombra doble (large, not-too-strong coffee) and a pitufo (large toasted roll) smothered in fresh tomato pulp and garlic-steeped olive oil. Oh, and a small glass of freshly-squeezed orange juice thrown in for good measure. And all for €2.10.

Well worth a morning’s gestiones.

Talking of Spanish chickens (as did we in connection with El Prat airport), did you know that when you buy a chicken at the supermarket, the head is still on it? Had forgotten this detalle of Spanish life, one of the 101 Things They Never Told Us Before We Came To Spain featured at Brighter Spain. Go and read them here. And send in your own for the next 101. Brighter Spain (and Brighter Catalunya) is based near Tortosa in the Baix Ebre and they have some gorgeous holiday accommodation for rent and lots of info about the area.

Between Two Fires

April 3, 2008

Between Two Fires: Guerrilla War in the Spanish Sierras is a gripping and deeply moving new book about “Spain’s forgotten war” by award-winning journalist David Baird written after five years of painstaking research.

Published by Maroma Press